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Smita Patel 06/14/2006
“Educated individuals believe mythsâ€
The chills of winter are hopefully behind us and we all look forward to
the warmth of summer sun. Although most of us have come a long way in
understanding the dangers of the sun and the need for sunscreen, it is
amazing that even today; otherwise well read, educated individuals
continue to believe, what are nothing more than sun protection myths
e.g. ‘It is perfectly safe to be out in the sun for extended period of time as long as you have sunscreen on’. ‘A golden or dark skinned complexion (Asian Indian) does not require sunscreen’.
In reality whether we are Asian Indians or Caucasian, UV rays play
havoc with our skin’s health. Our skin is the largest organ of
our body and the first line of defense against Bacteria, Free Radicals
and the Environment. Although sunlight does help our bodies produce
natural Vitamin D, a natural protectant from osteoporosis and 3 lethal
cancers- Breast, Bowel and Prostrate, too much sun leads to
‘photo aging’. This can progress into skin cancers and even
melanoma. The fact is our body only needs 5-10 min of sunlight daily
for an adequate supply of Vitamin D. It is unfortunate that
those “total block†sunscreens with high Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
give us a false sense of safety. It should be understood that the SPF
numbers only relate to UV-B ray. UV-B rays indeed are more powerful
than UV-A rays, but the atmosphere filters out most- and only 5% UV-B
rays reaches our skin. Furthermore these rays do not penetrate further
than the epidermal layer of the skin, but exposure can result in
redness and a burning sensation. UV-A rays on the other hand
are far more dangerous for they cannot be adequately filtered out They
are the key players in skin cancer. They cause premature aging as they
penetrate further into the dermis layer of the skin, injuring the
fibroblasts and skin matrix, activating genes in way that destroys
collagen and elastin as well as disrupting the normal layering of
melanin, our body’s natural sun protectant. The result is loose
wrinkled hyper pigmented skin that fast loses its youthful luster.
The organic ‘Parsol’ or Mexoryl variants are good UVA
protectant while Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are the inorganic
reflective protectants for both UVA and UVB rays. Until now it was
difficult to formulate aesthetically pleasing sunscreens but
technological advances have made it possible to micronize the
relatively large zinc oxide and titanium dioxide molecules into
nanocrystal. So that, today, not only can sunscreens be, non-greasy,
non-irritating and non-comedogenic but virtually transparent as
well. The ideal formulation affording the best protection
would be one that incorporates these qualities with the added benefit
of antioxidants such as Vitamin E and C and A, Beta carotene, alpha
lipoic to name a few. No doubt, it is not easy to find a
sunscreen that contains each and every protective ingredient in one
formulation. However a qualified/ credentialed skin care professional
can be a good resource and a great place to start - not only would your
skin type and condition be taken into account, but also your lifestyle,
which are all important factors in determining an optimal formulation
for your skin. Lastly remember that SPF15 blocks 97%, SPF 30 blocks 98%
and the best SPF100 % "Total" sunscreen blocks only marginally more UVB
rays. The fact remains that 2% of UVB and about 60% of UVA still gets
through to damage our skin. Although we cannot totally
change our lifestyle, it would be wise to find a balance between the
benefits and the dangers of sun as we work and play. (Smita M. Patel is the Founder/Director of KayaKalp Skin Care. This clinic in association with a plastic surgical practice forms KayaKalp Aesthetics. Her initial training was at Innoxa's school of Beauty located on Bond St, UK. Today, Smita is a USA-trained, licensed aesthetician. She continues to hone her skills through accreditation and is committed to delivering the highest level of patient/client care. Smita is under the ongoing guidance of an accomplished Ayurvedic physician in India. She takes a holistic approach that educates patients/clients on skin care procedures as well as lifestyle tips that will supplement and enhance the benefits of her treatments. For more information please visit her website at http://www.kayakalp.com )
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